But it's a discussion about a topic that doesn't exist! There is no original Chinese pilot's watch from 1963 (Project D304), except for the 1400 pieces produced in 1963. Only these are now valuable collector's items. All of today's pilot watches in the 1963 style with the Seagull ST19 movement are merely reissues.
We started selling the Seagull 1963 pilot watches in 2018. We purchased them directly from the Seagull Export Center in Hong Kong. After Seagull was acquired by an investor (2020/21), they "doubled" the price and the watch became unsellable against all other offers from watchmakers to whom Seagull sold their ST19 movement. The only version of the Seagull 1963 pilot's watch offered at the time was a cream dial, acrylic crystal, an ST19 movement without a swan neck and a steel back. A version with a transparent base and a large red logo on the inside was later added. Was this the original?
Maybe, but I would still say no. And why?
The question of whether it is an original from 1963 or not no longer arises today.
Seagull reissued their Vintage 1963 in the late 90s and modernized it a bit (36 -> 38mm case, more jewels in the movement etc.). The 1963 design itself was not protected. At the same time, Seagull sold more than 80% of the ST19 movement production to other manufacturers. These ST19 customers also created a re-edition of the 1963 pilot's watch, taking the design and configuration/specification a big step further, unlike Seagull itself.
Until recently, there was NO version of Seagull's 1963 pilot's watch with an ST19 with a swanneck or sapphire crystal or a true transparent back (and no 40 or 42mm case version). But these are the bestsellers!
Some customers interested in purchasing a 1963 watch with this specification ask if it is the original. That is of course not the case. Although some competitors claim "the original" for their watch, there has never been a contemporary "original"! The current landscape of ST19 pilot watches has evolved over time into this multitude of variants.
I think that all of these variants/models are a logical evolution of the clever, original idea of the 1963 reissue and a response to customer demand for interesting mechanical chronographs at an entry-level price. The common theme and core value proposition of all these watches is the ST19 movement, which has always been manufactured by Seagull. These 1963 style watches are the result of (sort of) real creativity unlike Seagull which stuck to acrylic/no gooseneck/no transparent back/no 40mm or 42mm cases.
Meanwhile, Seagull has copied these other 1963 watch makers, offering some of the specifications mentioned above and even a 40mm case version (at twice the price). So is this the “original” or a fake of a fake?
For potential buyers of these watches, it is much more important than the question of whether it is a "counterfeit" to find information about the quality of workmanship, reliability, accuracy and availability of service and spare parts. You can find these answers in watch forums and shop reviews.
After ending our collaboration with Seagull (2019), we carefully selected a new and quality-oriented manufacturer (not all have this ability). We found a partner whose quality was already much better (no acrylic lenses and pushers that have since fallen off), whose understanding of the demanding Western customers was better, who was responsive and willing to adapt their quality efforts and testing to our requirements, and who had more models and variants at fair prices. This is our offer today. We are happy with our selection of ST 19 chronographs because our customers are happy with these watches.
An original pilot's watch from 1963 is no longer available today. The discussion about the "original" is useless and just clever marketing to justify a higher price.
Which aspects should be relevant to the customer's decision-making process? It's about figuring out the difference in quality, the warranty and service offered, and (!) how much effort and communication it would take to return a watch or get warranty or service.
If you can check these boxes, you'll most likely get a nice, reliable watch and a provider that won't run away when service is needed.
*(we insisted on a glass back and got one with a large red stamp on the inside which obstructs the view of the movement)
]]>For simple products, the risk is manageable and apart from a very long delivery time and possibly a complex return, the process should run smoothly.
Things are different when it comes to watches. Watches are complex precision instruments made up of many different components. If these have not been carefully manufactured, assembled and checked, problems can quickly arise. At Bartels Watches we have been importing Chinese watches since 2014. We haven't always had good experiences with this. In some cases the complaint rates were 15% or more. Through precisely specified requirements and acceptance and delivery tests (and supplier changes), we have quality under control and are considered a reliable supplier by our customers. This also means that we are available at any time and have spare parts and an experienced watchmaker on site. However, these are iterations that private individuals do not want to go through.
What are the challenges if you want to procure a mechanical watch yourself in China?
Buying a supposed watch bargain from China can work, but it doesn't have to. If a problem arises, the new watch will quickly become an economic total loss or, in the case of more expensive watches, an expensive nightmare. Especially with an emotional product like a watch, there is soon nothing left of the original joy.
]]>Imagine you have a nice collection of automatic watches with different complications: 3-hand watches with date, day of the week or month display and maybe you can even call yourself the lucky owner of a perpetual calendar. Now it is unusual to carry more than one, let alone the entire collection, on your arm. As a result, the watches stop and must be set before being worn again. Depending on the watch movement, this can be a complex process. A watch winder can help here .
A watch winder, also known as a watch winder, slowly rotates a watch attached to it around its axis, imitating wearing it on the wrist. This continuously winds the automatic movement and keeps the watch running.
Watch winders are available in different sizes. The most common versions can wind one, two or four watches at the same time. However, there are no upper limits (e.g. Buben & Zörweg, 142 watches).
The basic principle is simple: the clock should be moved so that it doesn't stop.
This continuous movement of a watch turner simulates the movement of the arm and wrist. This kinetic energy is stored in the spring housing via the rotor of the automatic movement and then released to the movement in a controlled manner so that the watch can run. Between rotations, a watch turner also has rest periods that simulate the natural wearing of a watch . Automatic movements can have different requirements for a watch winder. Most watch winders can therefore set the number of revolutions per day (TPD: Turns per day) and the direction of rotation.
A watch winder can only wind wristwatches with a mechanical automatic movement . All other mechanical watches cannot be wound using rotational energy.
Clock turners can usually be set to turn either clockwise, counterclockwise or alternately in both directions.
Whether the watch winder is tilted plays a minor role and is more of a design feature.
90% of automatic movements are wound clockwise at 850 revolutions per day (TPD) . Which direction of rotation is suitable for your watch depends on the manufacturer and type of movement. You can usually get information about this directly from the manufacturer.
No. If an automatic movement can only be wound in one direction, the other direction is idle. So your watch will only not wind if it is turned in the wrong direction. Which direction of rotation is suitable for your watch depends on the manufacturer and type of movement. You can usually get information about this directly from the manufacturer.
The volume of a watch winder is a quality criterion. High-quality models have very quiet engines (e.g. Switzerland, Japan) and can hardly be heard. The larger the watch winder (watch winder for 2 watches or watch winder for 4 watches) has more moving parts and can therefore make more noise. It is best to test the watch winders you are considering directly at the final installation location.
An automatic watch winder is usually operated via mains power. There are models that, in addition to the mains power connection , also enable battery operation. This can be practical if these models are to be taken with you when traveling or stored in a safe.
The existing programs and setting options should be a main criterion when choosing the best watch winder for you. Make sure that both directions of rotation are possible. Some clock movements can only be wound in one direction. Many watch winders already provide for this in programs where you have the following options:
The TDP should also be adjustable. With 850 TDP you can already cover 90% of all automatic watches. In general, the recommended TDP is between 650 and 1950, although 650 to 900 TDP should be sufficient settings.
The size of a watch winder depends on your personal collection of automatic watches that you want to wind with it. Watch winders for a watch can be very compact and can even be easily placed in a closet or a safe. Larger models for more watches require significantly more space and can be the size of a cupboard. The most common versions accommodate one, two or four clocks at the same time.
Most providers advertise their watch winders as being whisper quiet. However, the following applies here: Trying over studying. Test the models you are considering in a quiet environment and with different setting options. If the watch winder is in the living room, the volume plays a smaller role than if it is in the bedroom.
With modern automatic watches you don't have to worry. Continuously moving the watch promotes the distribution of oils throughout the watch and thus increases its lifespan.
However, lovers of vintage watches should be careful: the (original) oils used can become resinous and thus damage the watch by causing very high wear and tear on the moving parts in the movement. Changing the oil can help here. The synthetic oils used today are very stable and no longer become resinous. Please speak to your watchmaker before you have your beautiful vintage watch wound in a watch winder.
An automatic watch winder is a nice way to protect your watches from dust and present them at the same time. You can even use the free spaces in your watch winder to display non-automatic watches.
The manufacturers of high-quality watch winders have recognized this and therefore offer watch winders made from selected materials with an excellent finish. Piano lacquer in combination with glass is particularly popular. Particularly large watch winders are real design objects that deserve a central place in your living room. The issue of theft protection also plays a role, so some watch winders combine bulletproof glass panes with safe locks without it directly looking like a safe.
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]]>A hand-wound watch has some special features compared to other drives. This means that, as the name suggests, you have to wind it by hand , but also that it reveals the full splendor of the movement through a transparent case back because it is not hidden by the rotor of the automatic movement.
A hand-wound watch draws its energy from a spiral-shaped mainspring, which is previously supplied with energy by winding the crown .
This mechanism was invented in 1845 by Patek Philippe. This energy is then transmitted via a complex work of gears, levers and other springs to the hour, minute and second hands so that they can show the time. In a hand-wound chronograph, the stop function is also supplied with energy from this spring. This central energy source now slowly releases the stored energy and becomes increasingly relaxed.
ST1901 Movement of a Seagull 1963
The difference to the automatic watch is that with the hand-wound watch, this spring has to be wound regularly by hand by turning the crown.
How long a hand-wound watch runs depends on the so-called power reserve. This describes the maximum energy stored in the spring housing in relation to the typical energy consumption of the watch.
As a rule, the power reserve of watches with hand-wound movements is 36 to 48 hours . This means that when fully wound, the clock runs for 36 or 48 hours. It is therefore recommended that most hand-wound watches be wound daily. Especially since the accuracy decreases before the watch stops.
Wristwatches, whether automatic or manual (hand-wound), are usually wound by turning the crown (winding crown). This is connected to the clockwork and thus delivers the energy directly to the heart of the clock.
Typically, you turn the crown of a watch clockwise to wind it up. It should be noted that diving watches in particular have screw-down crowns. These must first be screwed on before you can wind the watch.
Yes, men's hand-wound watches and women's hand-wound watches are equally common.
For women's watches, it is often a design reason to choose a hand-wound movement, as the watch will then be a little flatter . Paired with the smaller diameter of women's watches, the overall picture is harmonious.
Hand-wound men's watches are also very popular as they are often used as dress watches . Here too, the slightly flatter design is impressive.
That sounds simple and it is if you consider a few points:
A hand-wound watch has a mechanical stop beyond which you cannot wind it. Shortly before this point is reached, the resistance when winding increases, so that over time you get a feel for how far you can wind a hand-wound watch. It is recommended not to turn all the way, but to stop a little earlier.
Certain watch models have a power reserve display in days or hours so that you can determine at any time how long the watch will continue to run.
A hand-wound watch has a locking mechanism or stop that prevents you from winding the watch. However, if you apply too much force once this stop is reached, damage to the watch may occur (e.g. winding shaft). So make sure you wind the watch with little force and a lot of feeling .
If you avoid the following mistakes with the help of our tips, your hand-wound watch will have a long life:
Mistake |
Explanation & tips |
Pull up against the stop |
Although it is not possible to turn past the stop, damage can occur if too much force is applied to the stop. Tip : Pay attention to increasing resistance and stop early |
Winding with too much force |
When winding, sensitive shafts and gears rotate in the hand-wound movement, which can be damaged if increased force is applied. Tip : Wind up carefully and slowly |
Winding on the wrist |
The unfavorable position can cause force to be exerted on the winding shaft. The torque is transferred to the movement and can damage the seal and shaft of the hand-winding mechanism. Tip : Take off your watch |
Wind counterclockwise |
Winding the hand winder counterclockwise usually has no consequences as it is an idle. This does not open the work. But: The clock should only be set clockwise. Tip : Wind up & adjust clockwise |
Since standard hand-wound movements have a power reserve of 36 to 48 hours, they strictly speaking do not need to be wound in the morning.
However, since we recommend winding a hand-wound watch daily , it may make sense to add winding to your morning ritual.
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